July 13, 2016

Kors ups the ante in menswear

New York fashion week begins with the American designer, who heads up a business with a turnover of 4.7 billion dollars (+7.8%) and is set to exhibit a summer collection which is functional, urban and with a navy dimension.

di Ludovica Tofanelli

Kors ups the ante in menswear

It’s all about hybrid fashion”. When Michael Kors said these words, his voice boomed into the digital universe of Snapchat. Yesterday, in New York, the American designer revealed his menswear collection for spring/summer 2017. He chose a dazzling setting, Spring Studios, and offered a taste of his menswear collection to a new generation of followers, offering specially tailored content available exclusively on social media. The designer’s business is thriving; in the 2015 financial year, it turned over 4.7 billion dollars (around 4.2 billion euros, based on yesterday’s exchange rate), which constitutes a 7.8 per cent increase on the previous year (+11.7% at constant exchange rates). Mr Kors is exploring more personal and interactive ways of communicating with male customers, tapping into the yearnings of a generation which loves luxury. He has done so with an offering which boasts contemporary elegance, both from a stylistic and communicative point of view. It’s no accident that the chosen stage for this is New York Fashion Week: Men’s (see yesterday’s MFF), a new arena for male fashion which is now in its third edition, and has been backed by big players like Michael Kors himself. For this edition, Mr Kors has sought to create a setting which is aimed at the ‘young and cool’ market. “Our customer is a young, urban man… We thought a lot about this, looking closely at city geometry, before moving from the city concept to the sea. The general idea we’ve followed is one of hybrid fashion, whether it’s a trench coat or a wind breaker jacket, we’ve worked on mixing different pieces, materials, textures. We have also played around with layering”, the American designer told MFF. Michael Kors has placed emphasis on the menswear segment, one which is set for significant growth. John Idol, the fashion group’s chief executive officer, told MFF (see issue from 12 May) the segment could produce turnover of 1 billion dollars (around 902 million euros, based on yesterday’s exchange rate). In the New York Fashion Week: Men’s spotlight, we see the beginning of a new chapter in the Kors universe, providing pieces for a social, dynamic and sporty tribe of customers. Michael Kors’ signature hybrid style boasts graphic geometry, technical fabrics, sartorial references, produced according to a relaxed formula. The mix of concepts, materials and functions takes a relaxed form, with minimal cuts and architectural shapes. The American designer, who absolutely loves the island of Capri, where he often spends his holidays, has created a blur of bold lines, with the iconic navy and white combination. The marriage of colours has been designed for modern sailors, who navigate an urban sea and dive into hues of the deep blue, “from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean”, Mr Kors tells us. To complete the look, polka dots — in large and small versions — following the same seaside colour scheme, paving the way for a selection of pieces with the sand’s nude tone. Then we have optical white, inspired by the dazzling summer sunlight. The collection forms part of a classic wardrobe, at least that’s how it appears. The blazers are wind-resistant, thanks to modern fabric texture, while the cardigans have a technical quality, made with cutting edge threads. A wide variety of modern accessories, such as metallic glasses and chunky slip-ons, add even more attitude to the collection. “I really love what I do… I love showing that through a collection of pieces, each of which becomes a small fragment of my aesthetic universe”, the designer concludes.

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Ludovica Tofanelli