September 22, 2016

Gucci’s Valley of Dolls

Hints of the Orient, sharp profiles, striking frills, pearls and a torrent of embroidery combine in the extended and lofty lines designed by Alessandro Michele. With a nod to Florence Welch and the cinematic style and mood of Tim Burton.

di Stefano Roncato

Gucci’s Valley of Dolls

A rosy cloud has enveloped the showroom at Gucci, yet subtly, without any saccharine sweetness. A soft haze to soften the features, with 250,000 pink mosaic tiles and a touch of glamour on acid, a somewhat Gothic, dark allure. These extended lines, in the style of Tim Burton, and intentionally designed in an omnivorous tone, eager to stand out. Like a mirror ball, this multifaceted fairy tale was chosen by Alessandro Michele to tell next summer’s double G story. With that hyper-visual assault so beloved of the designer. Bigger in terms of both material and volume, with classic embroidery and waxy leather, a nod to the 70s and the extreme fashion of the 80s; an animal-like aspect, pearls on heeled moccasins, slip-ons from the platform to the altar. Colour has become the new master. The images are reproductions of illustrations by the artist, JaydeFish, discovered by Alessandro Michele on Instagram. Frills adorn the lofty lines of the long and multi-layered dresses, mixed with Eastern quotations and poster prints. A mix of words such as “Hollywood” or “cemetery” on the waist of a dress, with “future” emblazoned on a bag. A dream of fame and notoriety, hand in hand with a sense of the transience of things. Thoughts to be driven away with a wave of one of those fans which complete the look. A valley of dolls with double G style. A Gucciwood production, which moves to the persuasive words of Florence Welch, reciting a William Blake poem for the official sound track. And a certain phrase comes to mind. A message of love, graffiti left on a famous monument: Wish That You Were Here. The song from Miss Peregrine's Home for Peculiar Children, a 2016 Tim Burton film. The singer is none other than Florence Welch herself. She lingers on every sound, staying aesthetically akin to the mood of the show. Closing a circle, being, appearing.

Our verdict? An excellent demonstration by Alessandro Michele, offering Milan a new show to remember. The formula has passion and feeling. A journey along the paths of the heart, in the right direction, arousing desire.