Livestage

January 21, 2017 - 13:46

PFW: Watanabe Street

PFW: Watanabe Street

A column in the centre of the room, a musical totem pole of speakers out of which emanated the sound of Hustlin Junkie style rap. The mood is focused: sport and hip hop mixed together by Junya Watanabe. The very first look defined the silhouette: hats, sneakers and technical mountain gear. Ultra soft trousers, fetish jackets in a mix of tartan and sharp yellow inserts to highlight a new power pairing. “The collaboration with The North Face was the foundation for this collection,” Junya Watanabe explained to MFF, “it’s a brand that is considered one of the fundamental elements of streetwear. The whole show is an exploration of street style.” A playful mix, such as deconstructed pieces teamed with a The North Face duffle bag, all worn together. Hoods are worn up, varsity jackets have writing on the back panel, and patches that underline the collaboration. From Vans to Levis, Carhartt to Barbour, there are a dozen names who illustrate how contamination is fundamental. Underneath it all, is Watanabe, the designer who started the trend. The music gets louder, here come the military accents, quilted, with a hunting feel, trousers with tartan inserts or billboard style prints. Eye-catching craftsmanship, evident in the inside out details and contrasting sleeves that transform a jacket into a statement style.

January 20, 2017 - 21:00

PFW: Artificial animals à la Rick Owens

PFW: Artificial animals à la Rick Owens

Oversize silhouettes, with down quilting layers, with long appliqué sleeves, with floor grazing trousers. Glitter: a word that shimmers evocatively and flashes at first sight. But if it’s chosen by Rick Owens as his title for the season then rest assured it will have a more profound meaning. “I chose this name as a reaction to my last collection cycle that was based on physical and ecological decline, it was time to move forward,” the designer from Los Angeles explained to MFF, “Glitter is a reference to a period in the 70’s that celebrated immortality, transgression, sexual liberation and flamboyant non-conformity. Almost like a grotesque trick, that rejects fear in difficult moments.” That’s to say, Owens definitely has a concept and he realizes it with his visionary approach. He creates silhouettes that reflect on and reinterpret internal issues. Creating soft suits of armour, attached to the body covered in quilted fabrics with volumes somewhere between tramp and evening suit. There are opera capes accompanied by the voice of Monserrat Caballé singing the l’aria di Dalila, earning the trust of Sansone before destroying him. Sleeves with knitted appliqué lengthen jackets, super mega oversize shapes. Trousers that drag along the floor, faces painted white, roughed up hair applied to headbands with an alopecia effect. Big horizontal lines and quilting.  Outlining figures like balloon animals alla Jeff Koons, or those that are sold on the street.

January 20, 2017 - 12:05

MMU: Prada’s silent rebellion

MMU: Prada’s silent rebellion

Truth, simplicity, humanity,” the designer explained to MFF, choosing to show the fall/winter 2017/18 collection in a more intimate setting. A house filled with seventies style figures, dressed in velvet and angora, handmade shoes, knitted landscapes and talisman necklaces. The sound, an electronic interpretation of Beethoven which evoked memories of A Clockwork Orange, like the ending of Lady Gaga’s Bad Romance. The Seventies. An intruder with a beard and long hair among the cast. Iconic postcards by the painters of Monmarte in Paris. Necklaces with lucky shells and jewels. Miuccia Prada’s silent revolution has begun, and the designer still likes to mix things up to create a new Prada wardrobe. “There’s a need for truth, simplicity and humanity” the designer - who chose a more intimate setting for the show - explained to MFF. A house, with beds for seating, with wood panelling and tiling that created a wavy path. The show opened with a look that was symbolic of a new toned down vision. A grey sweater, beige trousers, a leather belt. Conceptual but not minimal, obviously. The air of rebellion, from velvet to angora, to hand crafted shoes. From shearling inserts and suits with leather edging that toughened up the simplicity. Mixed in were shoes in precious sheepskin, lace up boots in ponyskin and furry nappa. From graphic geometrics and designs that relax the eyes with an artistic touch: Landscapes and graphic linear designs similar to Picasso’s cubism. All founded on the poetic and the wild.

Verdict: Miuccia Prada is a powerful visionary. Putting a stop to the excess represents a clear move for a house that has always followed its own rules in terms of fashion. The show became the projection of an idea. More concrete and less frivolous. Above all, what is striking are the words of the designer, her ability to project her feelings and what she sees around her.

 

Interview/Miuccia Prada: “Today there’s a need for humanity”

How would you describe this collection?
It’s difficult to talk about a runway show. I would say that the biggest difference from the other big, important, over the top and complex shows is that I felt the necessity to do the opposite. Simple, humane, modest.
What sparked this change?
There’s a need for truth, for simplicity and humanity. It is a necessity right now. We translated this into the clothes. Trying to be real and true, with pieces that have a sense of this moment in time, which is a quality.
Can you explain more about this man?
He is poetic, a little primitive. The idea of the Sunday painter, a naïve art, an artistic expression. There are sweaters with painterly landscapes, the most simple flowers on earth. I’ve understood when people say that I work on bad taste that really I’m working on accepting weakness.
Why this rediscovered simplicity?
I’m fed up with power. The need for everything, the violence of doing everything and more. It’s better to find a modest humanity.
What do you mean by violence? Where do you feel it?
I feel violence in politics, it's a difficult moment and there’s a need for humanity. Even in fashion, which until now has been more about design. A need to find something that makes sense, as well as entertainment.

 

 

January 20, 2017 - 11:55

MMU: The Nocturnal Temple of Versace

MMU: The Nocturnal Temple of Versace

Versace’s temple of the night, carved in wood, a set similar to an art installation with cascading columns. A reconstructed medusa looks on unarmed meanwhile, across the nocturnal Olympia, are the defined silhouettes. Coats with rounded shoulders, a graphic note, then the rhythm speeds up. Abandoning the usual rock & roll note, for a more dramatic melody, gripping like the colossal soundtrack of a movie that tells the story of the Versace clan, “This is a moment of brotherhood. Everything starts with the casting, travelling the world in search of the faces that tell a story, that have life experience.” Donatella Versace explains the evolution that culminates in the show. Formal suits and wet hair worn like helmets, parted in front of the eyes “for a mysterious touch”. These young vampires, cinched at the waist, in quilted jackets that are lightweight and voluminous. Choosing intense lacquered red to hold the mix of tailoring and sportswear together. Accompanied by photographs of impressive sculptures in new prints, evoking a timeless beauty. A chess game against time, played out on a red and white background. Geometric, impressive. Unforgettable. Like the surreal graphic cuts in the finale. Elements from the archive reinterpreted. It’s a parallel world, with stairs that spiral upwards to reach new heights.

Verdict: Donatella Versace’s man has character. Strong, precise, confident he manages to mix elements of the collection while adding his own twist. The more dramatic edge was well done, because in the end a handsome gothic man is always pretty fascinating.

 

 

 

January 20, 2017 - 11:55

MMU: In the Digital Realm of Dolce & Gabbana

MMU: In the Digital Realm of Dolce & Gabbana

The Dolce & Gabbana awards. A secret, revealed as soon as the young singer Austin Mahone appeared at the top of the imposing staircase - like a scene out of Beauty and the Beast. Singing like a seasoned performer, high fiving the "special" models like the scene at an MTV awards, looking at the "It" girls in their iconic lingerie. Special models indeed, because the Milanese fashion house reaffirms the concept of the millennials. 
After tapping into a pool of influencers and young online personalities, this was the next step.  Around 50 guys and 12 girls - whose names are known around the world thanks their 10 million followers - took to the catwalks. Cameron Dallasthe Stallone sistersbrothers Lucky Blue and Piper America, to name but a few. Their mothers in the front row and their cellphones - obviously - in hand. "It's a strange season for us, we wanted to do something new", Domenico Dolceand Stefano Gabbana told MFF, "it's the post-Beiber generation, they're cultured, with strong values, they're important but often overlooked. They make music and art, they create new things. Their way of communicating is quicker. Normal people who've become famous online. It's the same concept as our show with the normal guys from the south but applied to those who've grown up on the web. The digital version of the famous Sicilian leopard, il gattopardo digital." Each added a personal twist to the styling of their looks. Looks which, obviously, already had the Instagram factor. Eye-catching, fun and free-spirited. With a royal desire translated into regal motifs. Crowns, like the ones that are a must-have for the festive season. Imperial lion heads. Coats wth gold buttons. Ponchos with family crests. Prints and trompe l’oeil  which emulated upper class uniforms. Embroidery with phrases including King of Love. Oversize down jackets worn with printed pyjamas and embellished slip on sneakers. With Viking helmets. A digital interpretation of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa's Sicilian leopard watching from the past, to the present and towards the future. Animal print backpacks, as in stuffed animals draped over shoulders, in the shape of bears and feline creatures. Bomber jackets with animal heads, moving through the metropolitan jungle. With a grand finale in tuxedos and and sharp evening suits, because the Dolce & Gabbana dream doesn't die.

Verdict: We're in Milan but in an instant it feels like we're in L.A. or New York or Tokyo. You're here and everywhere at the same time. It's an amazing to feel that you're at the epicenter of what's going on: music, smiles, attractive faces. Breathing in fresh air, and the atmosphere is fun. Now, where do I click like?

October 5, 2016 - 00:34

PFW: Night at The Museum with Kenzo

PFW: Night at The Museum with Kenzo

Animated statues populate the art gallery where Kenzo presents its collection, bringing on the catwalk ladylike dresses with technical ponchos and disco dance pieces.

September 28, 2016 - 18:29

PFW: The Luxurious Lanvin

PFW: The Luxurious Lanvin

Bouchra Jarrar did her debut at the creative helm of Lanvin with a luxurious collection presented during Paria fashion week. The spring-summer 2017 conceived by the designer follows a sense of elegance between a sexy attitude and a masculine tailoring.

September 28, 2016 - 18:13

PFW: Maison Margiela's Urban Future

PFW: Maison Margiela's Urban Future

John Galliano looks at the metropolitan future to draw the spring-summer 2017 of Maison Margiela, unveiled during Paris fashion week.

September 28, 2016 - 12:37

PFW: Vaccarello's Party Girls for Yves Saint Laurent

PFW: Vaccarello's Party Girls for Yves Saint Laurent

"I'm a party girl, funny girl. What did you do last night? "A few hours before the show, a video preview unveils hypnotic words and images in black and white of Anja Rubika. A tale imagined by Inez & Vinoodh to give a taste of one of the most anticipated events of Paris fashion week, the Anthony Vaccarello's debut at Saint Laurent helm after Hedi Slimane. A loud tattoo, a visual Cassandra. A mega neon logo that stands in the night on the mega-industrial location chosen for the debut. A construction site in activity and a mode that look back to the hedonistic spirit of Monsieur Yves, scratched by Anthony Vaccarello's rock modernism.

September 25, 2016 - 18:19

MMD: Dolce & Gabbana's Italian Tropic

MMD: Dolce & Gabbana's Italian Tropic

An ideal Italian Tropic that embraces Sicily and Naples. A chaos caliente at the beginning of the show, where street dancers move following a tarantella remix, before kicking off the Italian beauty by Dolce & Gabbana. The duo pays omage to the iconic Italian pop culture, from pizza to the authentic fakes. "We had a lot of fun with this collection... We recounted a mix of different feelings and experinces. We don't care about trends anymore.. We believe that this is the moment to tell a personal fashion story, an aesthetic idea able to give emotions", have explained Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, in front of a group of digital stars to present their essentials: sensual laces, baroque embrodieries and couture denim. As well as the real fake project introducing the t-shirts with the claim "Docce & Gabinetti".

September 24, 2016 - 16:24

MMD: Squared tailoring for Ermanno Scervino

MMD: Squared tailoring for Ermanno Scervino

Three dimensional laces, pleats and precious crystal collars for Ermanno Scervino, presenting his spring-summer 2017 women's collection during Milan fashion week.

September 24, 2016 - 16:17

MMD: Inside Blumarine's Garden

MMD: Inside Blumarine's Garden

Sangallo coulotte, trench coats, baskets of wild flowers, dresses and cotton skirts with embossed top for spring-summer 2017 Blumarine.

September 24, 2016 - 13:04

MMD: The African Mood by Antonio Marras

MMD: The African Mood by Antonio Marras

L'Afrique c'est chic. A whirldwind of prints in black and white, between vichy paintings and tropical flowers dancing with rock'n'roll. Antonio Marras tells the photographic story of Malick Sibidé

September 23, 2016 - 19:01

MMD: Versace and the fredoom

MMD: Versace and the fredoom

Donatella Versace looks at the next spring-sumemr 2017 with a clear and defined focus: freedom. Be, think and act. Starting from these dogmas the designer creates a dynamic collection that makes the movement the key mood of the season. "The sportswear is the future of fashion and my challeng is making it  unique and luxurious for this season", has explained Donatella Versace.

September 23, 2016 - 18:18

MMD: The eternal topicality of Tod's

MMD: The eternal topicality of Tod's

The timeless icons. The timeless elegance. Tod's brings to the catwalk at Milan Fashion Week a spring-summer 2017 collection without following trends. Nothing is granted, instead, all is devoted to the eternal topicality

September 23, 2016 - 17:44

MMD: Etro's Globe Trotters

MMD: Etro's Globe Trotters

Veronica Etro brings to the catwalk in Milan a spring-summer 2017 dedicated to the adventurers. Globe-otrotters travelling all around the world, who, from the desert to the metropolis, and that never give up to dthe style personalization. Now tribal, now pop.

September 23, 2016 - 14:18

MMD: The women of the sea by Sportmax

MMD: The women of the sea by Sportmax

The  Spring-Summer 2017 presented by Sportmax is inspired by the pages of the book Shima no love. A collection of photographs signed by Kusukazu Uraguchi to depict the pearl's fisherwomen, arriving on the catwalk wearing windbreaker and billowing dresses with marine prints.

September 23, 2016 - 14:11

MMD: Giorgio Armani's charming aesthetics

MMD: Giorgio Armani's charming aesthetics

Giorgio Armani unveils his spring-summer 2017 fashion week during Milan fashion week, presenting a collection that makes elegance its stamp. Protagonists are crystals, transparencies and ethnic veiled details.

September 23, 2016 - 10:50

MMD: Military ethereal by Diesel black gold

MMD: Military ethereal by Diesel black gold

Andreas Melbostad defines its Diesel black gold look among ruffles clouds and lingerie details inspired by the ethereal aesthetics of David Hamilton but reinterpreted in a utility editing

September 22, 2016 - 20:40

MMD: The Paper Dolls of Moschino

MMD: The Paper Dolls of Moschino

Jeremy Scott looks back to the past to create the Moschino's spring-summer 2017. A world of  paper dolls anticipating the advent of Barbie and dreaming as fashion girls. A sort of tribute to Franco Moschino with surreal evening looks. As a result ruffles and drapes blend with leather miniskirts, leggings and biker jacket creating a mix where fantasy is opposed to reality.

September 22, 2016 - 19:51

MMD: The cloud imagery of Byblos

MMD: The cloud imagery of Byblos

The designer Manuel Facchini creates for Byblos an ethereal collection with the three-dimensional aspect. Laces and embroideries, along with summer multicolor and transparencies look at the aerodynamics and are inspired by voluptuous sculptures by Peter Gentenaar.

September 22, 2016 - 16:34

MMD: Emilio Pucci's Vitaminic World

MMD: Emilio Pucci's Vitaminic World

Color block, inlays and vitaminic fantasies animate the spring-summer 2017 collection conceived by Emilio Pucci for the spring-summer 2017.

September 22, 2016 - 16:34

MMD: Marie Antoinette by Fendi

MMD: Marie Antoinette by Fendi

Imperial fabrics and high volumes combined with strong details and sports references for the Fendi collection presented on Milan fashion weeks catwalks.

September 21, 2016 - 20:58

MMD: The multi cultural journey of Roberto Cavalli

MMD: The multi cultural journey of Roberto Cavalli

Patchworks coming from different cultures and inspirations for the collection created by Peter Dundas, including denim and leather mosaics together with decadent velvets.

September 21, 2016 - 16:59

MMD: Gucci's unexpected girls

MMD: Gucci's unexpected girls

Alessandro Michele creates an unexpected collection for Gucci, subversive and phantasmagoric. The aesthetic codes are inspired by the writings of Nabokov and Caillois, while the spring-summer 2017 on the catwalk plays with the textures and volumes. As well as alternating seventies and monogram touches with oriental references and prints.

July 4, 2016 - 21:05

HC: Ralph & Russo's Romantic Mysticism

HC: Ralph & Russo's Romantic Mysticism

Ralph & Russo presents a collection between romantic and mystic, interpreting the codes of nature with embroidery, crinolines, overlapping veils and drapes.

July 3, 2016 - 21:12

HC: Ulyana Sergeenko, Russia Between Past and Future

HC: Ulyana Sergeenko, Russia Between Past and Future

Ulyana Sergeenko tells her Russian story suspended between past and future and reliving among mermaid sequin, sixties geometries and skirts accompanied by wool socks.

June 23, 2016 - 15:56

PFW: Return to the origin of Issey Miyake

PFW: Return to the origin of Issey Miyake

A minimal style, polarity shades in alternate to flash of yellow and of blue. The Ghandi draperies and the ripples bring the spring-summer 2017 to the originis of Issey Miyake.

June 23, 2016 - 14:57

PFW: Zoomorfic creature of Rick Owens

PFW: Zoomorfic creature of Rick Owens

Rick Owens generates a fantastic bestiary with mythological walruses, garments of draperies and imaginary water splash on skin and woven.

June 22, 2016 - 21:24

PFW: Haider Ackermann techno drama

PFW: Haider Ackermann techno drama

Steve Bug roars in the speaker. The strobe light inflame the Palais Galliera what it welcomes the techno drama of Haider Ackermann: among silk deluxe and the sport mood.