The Fendi comeback

di Alessia Lucchese

The LVMH brand has relaunched its line for men who are “contemporary and metropolitan, with a meticulous eye for detail,” in the words of Silvia Venturini Fendi.

The Fendi comeback
Silvia Venturini Fendi

Fendi is wowing the fashion industry with its menswear once again. Its comeback at Milan Fashion Week suggested that it would once again become one of the regular cult happenings on the catwalk in the coming seasons. Having spent some time away from the eyes of the press, the menswear by the Roman house has started a new chapter in the story of its style, deliberately leaving aside any references to trends and embracing a more concrete outlook. There is an urban feel to the slim-fit daywear and the menswear for Autumn-Winter 2012/13 has a relaxed, sophisticated silhouette. Silvia Venturini Fendi is the creative talent responsible for the look on display.

The Fendi men’s collections were out of the spotlight for four seasons, only going on display in presentations exclusively for buyers. Why did you decide to make an official comeback as part of the schedule for Milan Men’s Fashion Week?

There has been a significant increase in both the turnover and the number of stores in recent seasons, so we felt that the time was right to bring our man back into the limelight.

Which three words would you choose to describe the Fendi man?

Metropolitan and contemporary, with a meticulous eye for detail. We have carried out technological research into materials and focused more on daywear, to give simple, authentic masculinity.

Lots of brands are now opting to produce high-end menswear. Fendi is part of the LVMH group, which is behind a grand relaunch of the Berluti male-only brand, giving it an almost couture-like feel. Do you think that this could be the new frontier for luxury brands?

Luxury today means research and the use of fine materials, with respect for the past and craft traditions that is ideally balanced with a strong focus on innovation and experimentation. We sought to underline this aspect in the collection by using elaborate, sophisticated techniques such as needle punching and blending cloth with mink, as well as felt with astrakhan.

For the time being, you have decided to use a presentation to reveal the men’s collection. Are you thinking about a return to the catwalk?

We are not excluding any possibilities at the moment. All of our options are open. For now, we intend to concentrate on new projects for the relaunch of the men’s line, such as the male version of our bestselling fragrance Fan di Fendi, which we are working on at the moment. It will be launched in September.

Pietro Beccari, formerly of Louis Vuitton, became the CEO of Fendi a few weeks ago. Do you expect to continue along this strategic path with him?

Pietro Beccari knows men’s fashion very well and we are happy to be able to work with him. In a few months, we will be able to provide more details about the development plans for our world.