Ferré come back

di Alessia Lucchese

Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi have given a fresh take on the geometric, opulent style of the architect of Italian fashion.

Ferré come back
Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi

A brand new chapter has begun in the history of Gianfranco Ferré. The pen has been dipped in the ink and it is just starting to write on a blank page. It is a job that is being done in a retiring yet determined and resolute manner. Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi want to add fresh pieces to the aesthetic mosaic of the house on Via Pontaccio. The two former pupils of the architect of fashion have been the creative directors of his label for two seasons. They have been given the tricky task of restoring the house to its former glory, while in the background there are ongoing management difficulties under the Sankari family’s Paris Group, which now owns the brand. The creative pair are relishing this challenge and aim to push Gianfranco Ferré forward into a future that is still waiting to be written.

How much does the legacy of Gianfranco Ferré influence your collections?

We worked with the architect for a long time. We are very familiar with his fashion and I believe that his fashion shows are what first lit our flame of passion for this profession. However, it makes no sense to pay tribute to him every time just for the sake of it. Rather than garments from the archives, we tend to get our inspiration from photographs and old advertising campaigns. With this collection, we aimed to present a look for women that he would have wanted us to design, but at the same time we strove to fully express our style.

What message do you want to send out?

That the Gianfranco Ferré woman is both precise and sensual at the same time. “Sexy” is not the right word: we envisage femininity that is elegant and sophisticated but never cold or aloof. This slightly mysterious essence can be seen in our collections. The volumes and architecture help to give the appearance of simplicity to highly complex constructions. We do not like to create looks that are too showy: purism has always been a distinctive feature of our designs.

How would you describe your woman?

Sensual, contemporary and approachable. Elegance that is precise but not impossible.

How relevant are the lessons of Gianfranco Ferré?

They are extremely relevant. Our goal is to take the house into the new realms of the future, but without completely leaving its traditions behind. When we think of Ferré and his work, the main images that spring to mind are the collections from the late 1980s and early 1990s, when his designs were very graphic and architectural. Ferré’s work was elegant, precise and at times even masculine, but it was never affected. We want to focus on this aspect and design for strong, dynamic women who are never static. The construction of every garment is based on a three-dimensional outlook, giving a different appearance from every different point of view.

This is part of what makes Gianfranco Ferré different from other brands.

Precision is a word that comes up often when we talk about our style because it perfectly sums up what we stand for today. We do not want to feel obliged to follow trends. We want to put forward our personal taste and follow it. For example, for the winter we wanted to combine simple shapes with opulent details, but without taking on a “full load” like the architect frequently did. We have a different story to tell and we want to show it by moving in this direction.