July 6, 2017

HC: A Parisian in Chanel

di Giampietro Baudo (Paris)

HC: A Parisian in Chanel

Un femme parisienne. Charming and elegantly architectural. Wearing bouclé and plumage that looks like fur, all with a feel that is severely chic, somewhere between the 1930s and the ‘80s. Strolling, as if on the front of an autumnal postcard, under the vaults of the iron lady, also known as a reproduction of the Eiffel Tour, 38 meters tall and constructed under the dome of the Grand Palais. Chanel paid homage to Paris, to the City of Lights loved by Mademoiselle Gabrielle Coco Chanel. The city that recently recognized Karl Lagerfeld, director of the brand, with the medal of Grand Vermeil de la ville de Paris. The same city that Kaiser Karl was inspired by, starting from neo-impressionist paintings and cubists such as Robert Delaunay, who featured the Eiffel Tower in some of his works. “It’s the vision of the french woman reimagined, transformed...It’s all a play on cuts, proportions, forms and silhouettes. I wanted everything to have a very clear, sketchy feel to it. Like it was all extremely graphic and modern.” Lagerfeld explained. He chose women with intense stares, faces covered with draped hats, with button up boots on their feet and ear lobes decorated with micro-pearls. In the front row, to admire le parisienne wearing Chanel, Kristen Stewart, the face of the Gabrielle bag and the new fragrance, Gabrielle Chanel, celebrated the same evening with a big event at the Palais de Tokyo. There was also Pharrell Williams, Cara Delevingne, Caroline de Maigret, Tilda Swinton, Anna Mouglalis, Gaspard Ulliel, Alma Jodorowsky, Zhou Xun and Liu Wen as well as Julianne Moore and Sofia Coppola. A front row ready to applaud a fleet of mademoiselles wearing overcoats in egg shapes and clean lines - all with a mannish flavour - double breasted jackets, tunics and tailored skirts, simple T-Shirts and square cut jackets. A geometric-cubist aesthetic animated a sparkling evening of discreet hues. Thriving, three-dimensional florals bloom on classic shapes. The iconic little black dress is brought to life with pearls that are transformed into long, thin scarves that fall between the pleats of black taffeta.