July 5, 2017

HC: Schiaparelli’s emancipated muses

di Giampietro Baudo (Paris)

HC: Schiaparelli’s emancipated muses

“Shocking society”. Liberty. Seduction. All with a surrealist, artsy spirit. Maison Schiaparelli drew inspiration from a host of emancipated muses to tell the couture story for next winter. Women just like Elsa Schiaparelli: cultured, seductive, ready to play with their bodies wearing fragments of art. “This collection is a continuation of the work we started on Haute Couture in January, but I wanted a less literal interpretation of the house’s heritage.” Bertrand Guyon explained to MFF, the creative spirit of the house is also the head of Diego Della Valle, backstage at the show that was held at the show’s atelier in place Vendome.
“I wanted to celebrate women, strong women like Elsa Schiaparelli. I started with a series of figures from the ‘30s, women who have worked with artists. Characters like Lee Miller, like Juliet, Man Ray’s wife. Like Nancy Cunard. Intelligent women who inspired some of the most important cultural figures of the past. I like to create the image of a strong woman, capable of expressing an idea of beautiful intelligence. Ready to show off her body with liberty, because I believe that during that period, there was less malice and more liberty, also in showing off the naked body...In fact, I think generally this collection is very free.” A freedom that triumphs in the play between classic symbols from the brand read with a playful eye: the lobster or large brocade suns, trompe-l'œil on tulle gloves with sequin lacquered nails or puzzle effect jackets, edging on jackets or two pearls that become nipples on twilight tulle, necklaces filled with charms, embroidered on voile T-shirts or multi-dimensional bows. An urban breeze fills the pieces: the all in ones with precious applique, mesh tailoring, broderie in plastic, fake zips transformed into embroidered details thanks to macro Swarovskis. Geometric squares meet angelic voile. Coats in transparent plastic are ready to reveal the secret contents of large pockets. A game of contrasts that culminates in a final, immaculate bridal gown, for angelic figures of purity.