January 20, 2017

PFW: The Givenchy Melting Pop

di Stefano Roncato

PFW: The Givenchy Melting Pop

A library in ellisse. An arena filled with books that take the place of the spectators. Two suspended golden circles above a valley of culture. Lights rotate emanating power, they’re moons in the Givenchy universe. Projecting shadows onto a roof of skylights covered in names of countries around the world. A melting pot that’s also visible in the collection designed by Riccardo Tisci, who is at the centre of rumours (see yesterday’s MFF) right now. In an aesthetic pentagram with a new hypergraphic vein, that’s super chromatic. Melting pop would be more accurate, moving from sailor stripes, low cut T-Shirts and knitted collars like bomber jackets. Big mirrored letters and sparkling jewelled buttons, round metal plaques on duffle coats. Then comes the check print, cut into ruffles, reshaped into patchworks on shirts. Scottish or Western. With those faces that look a little Native American printed on sweaters, foulard scarves in place of drawstrings in hoods. Silhouettes are pumped up with sports jackets, with padding and velcro. Then, Tisci lifts the spirit with underground graphic prints: Heads like Chinese dragons and totems. Bright acid colours.